Symptoms
- Remotes do nothing; wall button still works (or neither works)
- Opener light blinks; door reverses at the floor
- Motor runs, door does not move — check springs before blaming the opener
- Grinding from the opener housing (worn gear)
- Door starts, then stops halfway
Heat in the garage attic space cooks logic boards and capacitors. Dust coats photo-eye sensors on the tracks. Batteries die. None of that is a spring — unless the door got heavy overnight.
The fix
Diagnose: power at the outlet, sensor alignment, force settings, gear kit vs. full opener swap, remote programming. A repair is the first choice when the rail and motor are sound. A new opener is cleaner when the gear is shredded or the board is out of production.
We will not sell an opener repair if the real failure is a broken spring. That mismatch burns motors.
St. George attached garages with west- or south-facing doors regularly hit well over 100°F inside. Opener motors and boards fail from that heat, not just from age. Photo-eyes also coat with red dust and reverse the door at the floor. If the unit is 12–15 years old and already slipping, we will say so and quote a new opener instead of stacking repair-on-repair.
Also: door won’t open · FAQ — opener vs spring
Quick checks before you call
New remote batteries. Photo eyes facing each other, lights steady (not blinking), lenses wiped. Outlet live (plug a lamp in). If the door is suddenly very heavy by hand, stop — that is a spring.
Free estimate
Call 435-773-8856 for a free estimate on opener repair or a replacement unit.
Same-day spring & opener repair — call now
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